San Juan Vineyards 2016 Estate Siegerrebe, Puget Sound, $22
This release signals the last bottling of Siegerrebe at San Juan Vineyards under the ownership of co-founder Yvonne Swanberg, who sold her property and brand to the owners of Corliss Estate in Walla Walla, effective Feb. 1. Some of these grapes come off the first parcel Swanberg and her late husband planted back in 1996. And since the 2016 vintage marked the debut of winemaker Chris Lawler, the cellar seems to be in skillful hands. Siegerrebe is a German cross of Madeleine Angevine and Gewürztraminer, and the Mad Ange component seems to lead the aromas here with hints of honeysuckle, jicama, lime zest and Granny Smith apple peel. The influence of the Gewürz and the Oct. 1 harvest is better revealed between the lips as the drink is bright, delicious and luscious because of tropical fruit flavors that include kiwi and yellow grapefruit. A pinch of anise and the lemon curd finish combine to sweep clean the residual sugar of 1.4%, making it an ideal match with clams, mussels and Thai food.
Production: 160 cases